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As I took the bus through central Seoul today we battled our way through streets lined with hundreds of Chinese overseas students clad in the red flag waving banners proclaiming peace and love as the Olympic flag made its way to South Korea.
Actually, I didn't know those details at the time. I just assumed it was just a big anti-protest thing - but I guess it was. The Chinese people have emerged to let us know that their country is promoting well-being in this time of world unity. Despite threats of Seoulites staging a protest, police, tight security, and masses of Chinese supporters appear to have won the day.
In the basement of a building in the university area of Hongdae lies a jeering audience twice a day as Korea's top B-Boys strut their stuff to the storyline of an aspiring ballerina who caves to the awesomeness that she beholds.
I, too, was enthralled. I wonder where I can pick me up one of these fine men... ;)
Video quality isn't great, and can only re-live a fraction of the magic that was, but it would be treacherous not to share what little I can offer of this totally awesome experience. (Do you reckon I liked it?!)
Yesterday was a perfect day for a stroll around the ancient Suwon fortress. (On a quick weather note, every day at the moment would be perfect. The sun shines, t-shirts are out, and sometimes you can catch a cool breeze to ease the ever warming heat. Summer will be a killer...and it's sad that I've heard spring just doesn't last that long.)
Suwon is another city just south of Seoul, but is still covered by the subway line so made for an easy day trip. Even though it still has a backdrop of high rise apartment blocks, it felt less manic than downtown Seoul with a far more friendly atmosphere to the place. Our taxi driver over to the fortress was certainly very excited to find some Brits to talk footie with, opposed to the Americans/Canadians he said there was lots of (and there are. I think I've met a mere two fellow UK citizens since being in Korea). Not that he was getting much more than smiles and nods of agreement, the driver seemed happy enough to be chatting away to us in Korean.
Anyway, the fortress wall is pretty much fully intact (though naturally it has been restored since its construction in 1794) and makes a complete loop of the inner city. It took us a couple of hours to do the walk at a relaxed pace.
There were several men wandering round in traditional guard-like garb, as well as couples and families alike making the most of the beautiful Saturday afternoon.
Ladies smell the springtime flowers while shading themselves from the harsh sun with a parasol. Wouldn't want to upset that sought-after pure white skin.
Old men (and less old men) can be seen all over Seoul - evidently in Suwon too, and I guess the rest of the country - working out in these public parks with the free exercise equipment.
Coming face to face with this guy through a window gave us both a shock as we were walking round on opposite sides of the wall. Him more so when I got out my camera.
WorknPlay, the recruiting company who originally arranged our trip to Korea, hosted a trip to the traditional hanok village in Jeonju this weekend. Normally I scorn bus loads of tourists who get off, snap some pics, and get back on the bus feeling like they've "experienced" the country, but for ₩30,000 to include travel, accomodation, food AND activities, it seemed a small price to pay (boom boom) for a bit of outside-Seoul adventure.
I guess there is a reason why the LP only gives Jeonju a single page of listed activities, but being on the aforementioned tour, we probably got to do a whole lot more than if we'd attempted it as independent travellers.
What we did:
- We made our own bibimbap. Jeonju is particularly famous for its unique style of bibimbap. I'm not exactly sure how it differs from other places, since as far as I can tell one day some guy decided to chuck all his vegetables in a hot bowl of rice, mix it with some hot sauce and make it a national dish. Anyway, it tasted good. Maybe not the best I've ever had as it was supposed to be, but certainly not the worst. That might have been the one we had in Itaewon that was recommended by the Lonely Planet.
- We watched a local girl playing some traditional harp-like instruments, and some men story-telling in the art of traditional Korean singing. The word "traditional" is going to be used even more in this post. Beware.
- We made boxes in the style of hanji - a traditional Korean paper art form. It was good to be on the receiving end of the arts and crafts lesson. The contest at the end for who had made the best box actually turned out to be self-nominees followed by a rock, scissor, paper competition. This is not an uncommon method for sorting difficult situations out for children and adults alike.
- There was a small festival going on with many Korean ladies dressed in hanbok (traditional dress) making tea and ricecakes. We were invited to look around and join in. We learnt the correct method of drinking tea (hold cup on palm of left hand and sip with right hand three times) while sitting cross legged under gazebos.
- We slept on the floor of a traditional Korean-style house (hanok) with the ondol (underfloor heating) on full blast. Even though most of Korea is still heated in this way, I reckon many people have proper beds these days. Still, sleeping on the floor wasn't a problem, but the rock solid (bean-filled, I'm sure) pillows were more of an issue for me.
- During the festival there was a mammoth 100-person bibimbap being made. This involved many of the local community getting their chefs hats on with industrial sized wooden spoons before doling it out to the masses. Or at least, one hundred of them.
Anyway, so that was our weekend in a rather large nutshell. Certainly nice to get away for a bit, meet some other foreigners (and hear about how most of them have unfortunate working conditions too, making us feel mildly better about our situation), and get a hands-on "traditional experience". Not sure I'd recommend it as a travelling hotspot, though.
So it would seem that I will not be Korea's next weather girl. Despite grey cloudy skies, I thought - in the spirit of my earlier spring-time post - that I would venture out with no jacket nor umbrella. Mistake. The latter half of the afternoon decided to spit a few drops down, and, having tested the water (so to speak), decided it was time for a large downpour. It continues.
Nevertheless, wanting to take advantage of the day off work, I met Lauren and we headed to Yeouido - again. This time, there were certainly blossoms blooming with joy. There was also a large host of umbrellas. So that was why there was a queue at the bench in the subway station with a photograph backdrop and fake cherry trees. We did wonder why they didn't just go outside and picture themselves with real blossoms.
Wanting to reach the long-awaited festival, we opted to follow the big crowd of umbrellas. They took us down the main street of trees, but save a few photographers and food sellers, I'm not sure I'd call it much of a festival. Perhaps blossoms and sunshine are necessary to bring the whatever-it-is-I'm-expecting out. They say that there will be fireworks on the last day. But not having official dates for this thing will make it difficult to attend without camping out there for the rest of the month.
Still, the multitudes led us right to Yeouido Full Gospel Church - the largest church in the world. It seemed distinctly closed, but we managed to find a way up via a long corridor and a back door lift. It was big. If I'd not known better, I'd have put it in the 5 biggest. But no, it has the largest congregation in the world. So that's quite a number of churches it's competing with there.
This is where it's at. Waking up with the window fully open and still feeling warm enough to jump out of bed raring for a new day. Back at home it would be the noise of lawnmowers and chirping birds to invite me outside. Here it is the faint hum of distant traffic and the occasional train. But it's all the same. Spring is well and truly here.
To make things even better - and for once that phrase isn't being used sarcastically - we negotiated some things with our boss on Monday. OK, so we had to basically threaten to quit if things didn't get better, but at least she conceded that yes, after our classes have finished, providing we've prepared everything we need to for the next day/week/month/year, we can leave. One small victory for the English department.
Furthermore, today is election day. And unlike their northern counterparts, South Korea is so in love with democracy that they give the country a day off to vote. Can't say fairer than that.
T-shirts that just capture the mood perfectly.
It's been five months, and somehow or other we'd totally bypassed that really huge mountain just behind our apartment. Dobong mountain is part of Bukhansan National Park - one of the most popular in Korea. The cold weather has been a perfect excuse not to get up there, but with spring now in full flow I'm not sure we'll be able to use that much longer.
This afternoon we just thought we'd take a bit of a wander, and ended up walking right through the foothills of the mountain. The fresh air and t-shirt temperatures coupled with blooming flowers and crispy fallen leaves made for a much needed stroll away from the groan of traffic from below.
When we reached flat land again, we weren't exactly sure where we were coming out. There was a stream running and a plot of land divided into allotments for people to plant seeds. There were many shabby old buildings with corrugated iron roofs, looking totally out of place next to the high rise apartments in the distance - and these are just down the road from where we live. It was like we'd stepped out of Seoul and into the countryside of Korea.
The flowers and leaves made for a perfectly aimless wander.
Families tend to their seedlings on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
This stream that runs just past our apartments was unrecognisable outside of its city-like surroundings.
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As I took the bus through central Seoul today we battled our way through streets lined with hundreds of Chinese overseas students clad in the red flag waving banners proclaiming peace and love as the Olympic flag made its way to South Korea.
