Singapore

Not fancying a long bus journey, we took an even longer 7.5 hour train journey from Singapore to KL yesterday. We forgot to buy food, so by 9.30pm we were pretty hungry. We just checked into a cheap hotel near Sentral station and went for a delicious Indian meal next door. After Singapore we are now able to fully appreciate Malaysian prices.

So the first thing that I found when we drove onto Singaporian soil was some twinge of longing in my heart as similarities with British road systems were overpoweringly apparent. In fact, I couldn't help feeling that Singapore was a hotter, more multi-cultural version of the UK. Everyone might speak English in Malaysia, but in Singapore it's the national language. Going out on New Year's Eve and hearing the distinct voices of British expats. It's not something I come across often in Korea.

So after a lazy morning on the first day of the year, we met Jaideep to take a lazy tour of the city. We took the "Duck Tour" - a half land/half water vehicle complete with cheesy tour guide and duck whistles for sale. It was good to get an overview of the city and some sunset pictures of the Singapore skyline from the river. We took in the less-extravagant-than-apparently-usual Christmas lights down the designer label Orchard Road before heading for the world's only "Night Safari" at the zoo: a chance to watch the animals sleeping in the most eco-friendly zoo a zoo can be. It was so good we spent the whole of the next day getting tired feet taking in the daytime zoo. Trying to imitate animals' natural habitats is inarguably exemplary, but it does mean that sometimes you have to search for a sighting in amongst all the greenery.

On Saturday we met Adeline, one of Ian's university friends, who gave us the most comprehensive walking tour of Singapore's cultural districts that we could have asked for. We took in Chinatown, the Arab quarter and Little India in a very thorough four hours. And to round it all off we spent the next day in Sentosa, Singapore's "best Thai beach outside of Thailand" [Jaideep]. Just as I was beginning to shake off the feeling of artificialness of Singapore prompted by staying at Clarke Quay - rows of sparkling trendy bars on the riverfront - Singapore's contrived manufactured beach resort certainly sparked it up again. But we had fun going round the unimpressive aquarium and taking the trip up Singapore's symbolic Merlion. There was a really poor laser show that inspires wonder at whom it is that buys the DVD.

So that was Singapore. Certainly I have mixed feelings about it. Clean and safe, for sure, with an excellent zoo and great night life. People are friendly and everyone seems to mix well despite differences in their cultural backgrounds, but artificial is definitely a word to describe it. And expensive. Malaysia really is comparable heaven for the back pocket.

And we're down to the last few days before the holiday ends and work begins again for the year. Today we spent an excellent three hours in Petrosains: a fully interactive science museum sponsored by Petronas, before taking our free tickets up to the Skybridge of the towers. Malaysia sure is proud of its oil.

The Newquay of Korea?

Ian and I took the bus to Gangneung on the east coast last Tuesday. It was a 3 hour journey from the Express Bus Terminal in Gangnam, and bus 202 links you nicely to the beach once you're there.

Shock 1: I've been know to turn a motel or two down in my time if they're ten thou or so over budget. I'd say 25-30,000 won has been a standard price for a double room, 40 if it was particularly swish. When the guy at the Komodo motel quoted ship-o-man-won I just couldn't comprehend it. I was so confused I actually got him to write it down. Yep, there it was: 150,000 won. We looked elsewhere.

All the big motels had the same story, if they weren't in fact booked out. I know it's peak season but to multiply prices by 5 is a little excessive. Even the little old lady with her no-aircon-no-natural-light box of a room was charging 70,000. We gave up the search in favour of lunch and the beach.

Now I'd say I've experienced a fair few beaches in my time here in Korea so far. There was the recent trip to Muuido where all the Koreans were conservatively swimming in t-shirts. There was Daecheon beach with the mud festival offering an alternative form of modesty. Phallic symbols overlooked the fishermen near Samcheok and the mass of bikinis in Busan was largely sported by westerners roasting on the sand. Being off the tourist trail but in search of some sea and sand I'd imagined a similar story. Hah!

Shock 2: Bikini babes were everywhere! Girls flaunting themselves in high heels, oversized sunglasses and little more than a tiny swimsuit were so predominant that did I not feel out of place because I was showing TOO much flesh, but not enough! Just didn't seem right for Korea.

We found the most secluded spot on this overly crowded beach that we could - which involved sitting next to the beach's bungee jumping stand - took a 15 minute dip in the less than clear waters, just in time for an attendant to come round at 6.30pm sharp whistling everyone out of the water.

Not planning on returning to the beach the next day we took a bus back home to Seoul instead. Traffic jams and a congested subway journey meant that we literally travelled for 8 hours for a 15 minute swim. Worth it? I wonder...

Mud, mud, glorious mud

Last weekend Lauren and I went down with WorknPlay to Korea's leading festival: the Boryeong Mud Festival. I'm not entirely sure what we spent out 70 000 won on since we were given a lot of 'free time' to sit on the beach (or paint ourselves with mud as we pleased), though we did partake in the compulsory military training in the mud flats (see right) and a large pork dinner.

I think we met more Brits that weekend than I've met in my entire time in Korea so far, and though we opted out of the mud slides and wrestling, we had a lot of fun exchanging "remember that TV programme..." stories and avoiding burly drunk (muddy) Americans.

Despite having been eaten alive by mosquitos and forgetting the sun cream, it was a great getaway for some sun, sea and...mud.